![]() They also say to drill out the holes with a 3/32 or #40 drill. The instructions say to melt the M3 hex nuts into the carriage and platform until they are flush. The major issues I had when building the rostock-mini frame arose mostly from the universal joints in the carriages and platform. (However, watch out for my warning about threading into a melted on nut below…) ![]() I recommend using a soldering iron to melt the hex nuts into the motor/idler ends to get an extra mm to make this easier. I used a combination of M3x16 screws through the holes I wasn’t working on and a pair of plumbers (water-pump) pliers to get the plastic clamps close enough together so that I could thread the screw onto the nut. I found it impossible to thread the screw into the nut until the plastic clamp was tight. When tight, the end of the screws don’t quite come all the way through the nut. The motor & idler end use M3x12 screws to tighten the plastic around the vertical upright 8mm linear rods. ![]() Finally, I wanted the experience of building the whole thing from scratch, sourcing all of the parts myself.īrian Evans has done a very good job with the design on this printer, but the tolerances are very tight, so I needed to use a bit of trail and error when fitting everything together. Third, I really like the visual aesthetic of the delta mechanism, and wanted to have both types of printers. The only object so far where I have needed the full 8×8 build volume was the small organizer drawer which is longer than 6 inches, but I have several objects I want to print that are taller than 4 inches. My Prussa Mendel can do up to 8×8 inches, but is limited to objects of around 4 inches high. Second, the vertical design of the delta robots makes having a tall print volume very easy, and while the Rostock-mini will only be able to print in a 6×6 area, it can go up to 8 inches tall. First, I wanted a backup printer in case I broke something on my main printer. I choose to build this (2nd!) 3D printer for several reasons. Instead of having 3 different x/y/z axis, it has three identical towers that raise and lower carriages that are attached to the extruder platform by rods. The biggest project that I am printing on my Prussa Mendel is all of the parts for a Rostock-mini which is a small footprint delta platform. Posted in Projects | Tagged 3D Printing | Leave a reply Rostock Mini: Simulated Printing Now I just have to organize all the other cables…. The video at the top of the post shows it in action as the Y-carriage (and build platform) move. I printed some Yzorg mounting ends and Buback cable sections and used them to hold the power and sensor cables for my heated build platform. Finally, Yzorg made some mounting ends for the cable. ![]() Landru designed a 3D printable cable carrier and Buback made a version that could be clipped around existing cables and didn’t need bridging to print. A common solution to this problem is a cable carrier, which is an articulated mechanism that keeps cables rolling back and forth smoothly in a defined position without excessive bending of any one point on the cable. Of course, if your cables get wrapped around something, or kinked, this motion can break them. However, some of the cables go to moving parts, and need to be able to move with the part. A lot of cables for my Prussa Mendel 3D printer can simply be clipped or zip-tied in place.
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