![]() #1 the "look" has to do with particular settings in your player.There has been discussion online for years of how media players don't handle color consistently and each have had their bugs. I've never really had this issue displaying photos - I've always found image software decodes and displays image files the same as every other software, so I just assumed that would be the case for video as well - as long as the player could play the file, it's output should look the same as any other player. How can I best get a reliable video player working that I can be sure is playing the files right, and is there some video codec pack that is considered 'standard' or the 'best' to install which will fix up codecs on my system (if that's the issue)? I did install some trial versions of video editing software fairly recently, I can't say whether this issue was happening before that or not. ![]() My VLC version hasn't changed for well over a year, nor has my Windows Media player, or my KM player version. So I don't know if this is a recent thing, maybe caused by installing some other software that has affected video codec files on the system? ![]() VLC has been my standard for a long time, and I haven't noticed this before. I cross-checked with the KM player, which I also have installed, and it seemed pretty much the same output as Windows Media player. Compared to it, Windows (7) Media player's output looks so much softer that it's startling, but it looks more smooth, doesn't have the halos, and it's greens and brightness look right. Also it's green's are displaying very poorly, and it's brightness seems a little higher. VLC's output seems very sharp, so sharp it has halos along all the edges, which is not a good thing. This is happening for multiple video files, from different camera sources. I've just become aware that videos on my computer look quite different when playing in VLC compared to other players I have.
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Also having shoulder caps(A little extra 'cup' to fit the shoulder into snugly) makes a world of difference. You're fighting against seam resistance, so the easiest way to win that battle is to have the seams where your movement is happenign anyways, on the 'movement pivots' of the shoulders. You want the arm holes to be relatively 'tight', like not actually TIGHT but you want them to be close to where the actual armpit is and shoulder is. This is going to sound counter-intuitive, but more material will probably end up restricting range of motion. It sounds like you're trying to add more material for more range of motion. I don't want to resort to making a gunny-sack body >.< I'd like to know if just adding an inch or two of extra fabric to each body panel will fix this problem, now that I have a dummy to work off of. Test fittings haven't worked very well for us, as it seems every mockup and every adjustment I've made so far have been too tight for his liking, even though I based them off measurements of non-stretch clothing that fit him. (I'm using Temperance's method as shown here: ) I'm using a pattern made from a duct tape dummy, and trying to decide how much extra material to add to each panel. However, he also wants to have a large range of motion, like, a climbing-trees and squatting to the floor sort of range. This is for a plantigrade suit with no padding, and the recipient wants it to fit nicely and not be baggy. This was a previous post I made on the same subject: ![]() ![]() I'm having trouble with a bodysuit I'm making for someone. ![]() It can remove the background from almost any type of image, including signatures, within seconds. 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Parallax was developed alongside Scatterer, so it is recommended for the best results to use them both together.ĮnvironmentalVisualEnhancements (a.k.a. EVE) It combines a tessellation and displacement shader as well as vastly improves the terrain detail ![]() Parallax(2.0) completely reimagines the surfaces of planets. Provides forecasts of the trajectory where your spaceship might land while it adjusts the trajectory for any atmospheric disturbance.Ĭustomizable Time Warp, and Lossless Physics Warp Now you can transfer resources in space without docking the two spacecrafts together. It adds winches, pulleys, harpoons, and pipes. ![]() Using it you can select your planet of Origin and planet of Destination and it will present you with details about the required Delta-V to travel from Origin to Destination. Lets you visualize planetary transfer efficiency in-game. (This version of the original mod shows the required parking orbit plane for more efficient ejection burn.) HyperEdit is a plugin for Kerbal Space Program, that allows you to teleport any ship, and edit any orbit – even the planets! Kerbal Engineer reveals important statistics about your ship and its orbit during building and flight. The Docking Port Alignment Indicator is designed to help you dock manually, by presenting target alignment and relative position in a clean and intuitive manner. Click the Apply button in the lower right corner.Select the existing mods and click the Apply changes button.In the upper right click the arrow at the end of the search field.To have CKAN manage the manually installed mods Display the upgradeable mods If you “Upgrade” those mods in CKAN, CKAN can check the compatibility, install updates, uninstall the mod. If the mod in the list has AD in front of the line, it was manually installed in the Gamedata folder of the game. In the lower right corner click the Apply button to start the installation.CKAN displays the list of dependencies to be also installed.Right-click the CKAN icon in the Taskbar and select Pin the taskbar.Allow the program to create a handler for CKAN URLS.Double-click the executable to start it.Create a shortcut to the file and place it in the Desktop, Start Menu or the Taskbar.Move the downloaded file into the Kerbal Space Program game folder.CKANĬKAN – Comprehensive Kerbal Archive Network is a mod library to find and install Kerbal Space Program mods from a user interface. The mod files are loaded during program startup. When you install or update a mod, exit from Kerbal Space Program and start it again. Most of them don’t introduce new parts, don’t alter the save file, just provide additional functionality to make your Kerbal’s life less stressful. 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![]() They also say to drill out the holes with a 3/32 or #40 drill. The instructions say to melt the M3 hex nuts into the carriage and platform until they are flush. The major issues I had when building the rostock-mini frame arose mostly from the universal joints in the carriages and platform. (However, watch out for my warning about threading into a melted on nut below…) ![]() I recommend using a soldering iron to melt the hex nuts into the motor/idler ends to get an extra mm to make this easier. I used a combination of M3x16 screws through the holes I wasn’t working on and a pair of plumbers (water-pump) pliers to get the plastic clamps close enough together so that I could thread the screw onto the nut. I found it impossible to thread the screw into the nut until the plastic clamp was tight. When tight, the end of the screws don’t quite come all the way through the nut. The motor & idler end use M3x12 screws to tighten the plastic around the vertical upright 8mm linear rods. ![]() Finally, I wanted the experience of building the whole thing from scratch, sourcing all of the parts myself.īrian Evans has done a very good job with the design on this printer, but the tolerances are very tight, so I needed to use a bit of trail and error when fitting everything together. Third, I really like the visual aesthetic of the delta mechanism, and wanted to have both types of printers. The only object so far where I have needed the full 8×8 build volume was the small organizer drawer which is longer than 6 inches, but I have several objects I want to print that are taller than 4 inches. My Prussa Mendel can do up to 8×8 inches, but is limited to objects of around 4 inches high. Second, the vertical design of the delta robots makes having a tall print volume very easy, and while the Rostock-mini will only be able to print in a 6×6 area, it can go up to 8 inches tall. First, I wanted a backup printer in case I broke something on my main printer. I choose to build this (2nd!) 3D printer for several reasons. Instead of having 3 different x/y/z axis, it has three identical towers that raise and lower carriages that are attached to the extruder platform by rods. The biggest project that I am printing on my Prussa Mendel is all of the parts for a Rostock-mini which is a small footprint delta platform. Posted in Projects | Tagged 3D Printing | Leave a reply Rostock Mini: Simulated Printing Now I just have to organize all the other cables…. The video at the top of the post shows it in action as the Y-carriage (and build platform) move. I printed some Yzorg mounting ends and Buback cable sections and used them to hold the power and sensor cables for my heated build platform. Finally, Yzorg made some mounting ends for the cable. ![]() Landru designed a 3D printable cable carrier and Buback made a version that could be clipped around existing cables and didn’t need bridging to print. A common solution to this problem is a cable carrier, which is an articulated mechanism that keeps cables rolling back and forth smoothly in a defined position without excessive bending of any one point on the cable. Of course, if your cables get wrapped around something, or kinked, this motion can break them. However, some of the cables go to moving parts, and need to be able to move with the part. A lot of cables for my Prussa Mendel 3D printer can simply be clipped or zip-tied in place. |
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